Casabianca, Asciano, Tuscany. 11th Sept
Agriturismo Podere Alberese.
We set off after breakfast from the B & B and headed up to a viewing point to take one last look down on beautiful Florence, before heading finally off to Asciano. Piazzale Michelangelo had been a recommendation on our list.
Florence seen from above is a singular experience. Not just a perfect photo opportunity, but a moment of wonder. You are looking at the city that gave birth to incredible artists, amazing scientists and an enthralling history of discovery and power that has filled novels and cinemas. No matter what time of day, you will find that Piazzale Michelangelo truly offers a stupendous lookout over Florence. We took just a few more pictures, returned to the car and descended back down the hill, reluctantly joining the road away from this wonderous place.
The road to Asciano was relatively short, part motorway and then through the beautiful green country side. Two hours later we arrived. Agriturismo Podere Alberese a 17th century farmhouse over looking Mount Amiata with an organic farm surrounded by vines & olive trees. The entrance a Cypress tree lined driveway, it looked wonderful.
On arrival we were greeted by Lovely Antoinette and her daughter Lucia, even though we were early, they were happy to show us to our accommodation for the next 5 days, a little rustic house, wooden furniture, terracotta tiled floor, a tiny kitchen with a check curtain under the units. It had an uncanny resemblance and scent of a house in Cyprus Ed & I both knew well, Auntie Pembe’s (Pembe Teyze) small terraced house in Kucuk Kaymakli. It was quite an unexpected melancholy moment and it immediately took us back to happier memories when she was still with us.
Unpacked and now familiar with everything, we went to explore our surroundings; a cluster of stone-built buildings some for tourists use, others for the owner’s own accommodation and some being used for the production of Wine & Olive oil. Olive groves abound and Grape vines visible everywhere, I was instantly transported back in time to holidays spent in the south of France with my parents many moons ago. Just down a path away from the main area a secluded Swimming pool (fenced off). We were told to close the gate after use in order to stop the wild boar visiting after dark and also not to leave any food waste outside our rooms for the same reason. Wild boar really! Next a trip to the local village, a super market visit to stock up or fresh produce would be necessary. We were directed to Sinalunga, a town twined with Dorking no less, the drive there and back a pleasure, Vine yards & olive tress just everywhere and off course the cypress trees, slim, tall, green, just wonderful. Russell Crowe of Gladiator fame could have easily been on his way home to see his wife once again. Our days were spent quietly and slowly, we had opted for breakfast, made for us by our lovely hosts and each morning we sat outside the dining area, looking over the gorgeous surroundings. Fresh coffee, local meats & cheeses, freshly made cakes & bread, eggs anyway you wanted and tasty Bruschetta made with local tomatoes and their own olive oil was simply irresistible. We were in breakfast heaven for five full days.
We didn’t feel the need to venture out with the car after dark, instead I prepared a few simple evening meals. Surprisingly even in a tiny kitchen space, you can make quite a few tasty dinners with fresh pasta, fresh parmesan, juicy Italian tomatoes and a bottle of wine, I even managed to make Taze Fasulia (Fresh green bean & Lamb casserole) one evening much to Ed’s delight, apparently so delicious we ate it for two nights running. No complaints my end. 😊
However, we did venture out during the day time, Siena was on our list and would be a full day out to Siena.
A beautiful walled town I had read about and eagerly awaited its visit. Because Siena’s building activity was largely suspended in the 16th century, and because most modern building has taken place outside the city walls, Siena’s original character remains unspoiled, and Siena remains essentially a medieval town. The walls and gates enclose a city centre that is composed of narrow, winding streets and old buildings and palaces. The centre of the city is dominated by a large, shell-shaped square called the Piazza del Campo, which is the focus of Siena’s civic life. Tourists like us visit Siena in large numbers to view the Corsa del Palio, the famous horse races of medieval origin that are held twice annually on the edges of the Piazza del Campo amid colourful festivities. Unfortunately, not the same time as our visit. Standing alongside the square is the massive Public Palace (Palazzo Pubblico; 1297–1310), which is the seat of civil government. The interior of the Public Palace is decorated by works of the great masters of Sienese painting, including the “Maestà” of Simone Martini and frescoes by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
We found a parking space relatively close, just outside one of the ancient gates. We started a steady pace towards the centre of the town, an incline. Passing pretty shops of all sorts, food, clothing, books, leather goods, art galleries and many more, all very enticing, one even paying tribute to our late Queen with a picture of her in their window.
With a lump in my throat and a tear in my eye, I had the urge to enter. A second-hand clothing & assessorial shop, very tasteful and very expensive. I hadn’t realised just how much and old designer hand bag or pair of good but creased leather shoes could still fetch.
The Piazza del Campo was well worth the climb, a most beautiful Piazza, on one side the Palazzo Pubblico (town hall) a palace. It is regarded as one of Europe’s greatest medieval squares. We took a seat at one of the restaurants opposite and admired the view whilst eating an Italian lunch and sipping wine.
With lots of pictures now already banked, we headed further up through the little streets to the Siena Duomo, a medieval church dedicated from its earliest days as a Roman Catholic Marian church and now dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, consecrated in 1215. How was it ever possible to erect such a structure now, let alone then we thought. By the time we had arrived, the ticket queue growing ever longer by the minute, hordes of tourists gathering in their groups with tour guides, we decided to admire only from the outside. We sat opposite for a fair while to absorb the wonderful view.
Time to leave, now down hill back past the square, familiar streets and shops. The gated entrance approaching us, I had an unfamiliar feeling, something didn’t quite look the same only similar, turns out Siena has no less than twelve gates and yes silly us, or was it silly me, hadn’t taken any notice what so ever of the name of the gate we came through. We decided not to do the blame game and after a few calming words I said, my inner compass has always been better than yours and insisted we went back into the city, rather than try to traverse the perimeter on the outside, probably the wrong way around. Well would you believe it 15 minutes later we found the correct gate, panic over. Now home to our farmhouse dwelling, looking forward to resting our feet, after a long but very well worth visit to beautiful Siena.
Well, we certainly couldn’t leave this place without a wine tasting, this was left down to Anna’s expertise, a lovely lady working for the owners, she explained in detail the process and grape varieties of the wines we were about to taste, this small family run business producing roughly 25 thousand bottles each year. Totally organic. Two varieties of white & three of red. Suffice to say they were all very nice. We really enjoyed our hour with Anna who was very informative. Their own olive oil was also superb. We made sure of taking a few bottles of each with us when leaving. Pittolo IGT Toscana Bianco – Aprilante IGT Toscana Bianco – A Vento e Sole IGT Toscana Rosso – Podere Alberese Chianti Riserva DOCG – Podere Alberese IGT Toscana Rosso. All available from www.poderealberese.it. Our five days somehow flew by, our thoughts now to the onward journey, a one-night stay in Ancona before boarding a 20 hour ferry to Greece.
Bonasera – Galimera
